...Is it ncdump that hides coordinate variables in OPeNDAP datasets or are they not visible in the NetCDF-C API either?
It is the netcdf API that hides them.
I can't see how we can use OPeNDAP as a transparent "on the wire" NetCDF if it misses out coordinate variables.
You do have an alternative. If you have compiled netcdf using --enable-netcdf4, then you can do an ncdump -k3 and it will present the DAP data in netcdf-4 format, and in that format, everything is visible. =Dennis Heimbigner
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